TROUSERS TO CLIMB TREES V2
kinetic garment construction, dec ‘25 - feb ‘24
In December 2024 I was very fortunate to learn Kinetic Garment Construction from Rickard Lindqvist at the Swedish School of Textiles. In this technique the fabric is shaped by the body’s translational and rotational movements. It is opposed to the traditional static and 2-dimensional pattern cutting methods that often result in garments that restrict and fight against the body, causing sensory overload and discomfort. Another iteration of the “Trousers to Climb Trees” project was the perfect starting point to test this technique in practice alongside a few neurodivergent research participants. The aim was to develop trouser prototypes that responded to their living body and its natural climbing movements, building on the discoveries from version 1.
Guided by the inherent qualities of the twill denim fabric, we found a directionality that flowed with the participants’ climbing movements. Guided by how the moving body interacted with the fabric, we shaped 3-dimensional forms that facilitated limb rotation without tightening on the abdomen, buttocks or thighs. Black markings indicate the direction of the stretch of the fabric as it flows around her body. Markings in red suggest where pockets might be placed.
By considering the body as a continuous form without a front or back, we reduced the number of seams. On the far right, the prototype is removed from the body and lies flat on the floor. You can see that the pattern does not have the typical outer and inner side seams traditionally associated with a trouser pattern. Instead the one piece pattern (per leg), is joined by a seam down the posterior. A dart shapes the crotch to buttock curve. A 4cm elastic strip at the centre back allows the waistband to expand and contract to accommodate the changing body morphology as the body climbs.
The prototype was tested, refined, and iterated in a studio setting by the participant moving through climbing activities. We then continued this process outside, in its context of use, climbing trees! Some stills from this are documented below.
Once again, the prototyping phase is not complete. We have tested out pockets and fly fronts and waistbands with this iteration. Yet there is more to be considered in terms of the seam construction; how can these offer tactile pleasure, free from scratchiness and stiffness? The length of the trousers was dictated by the width fo the fabric; how can we compensate for this? Shaping the leg was a subtractive process; how narrow can we make it before it catches on the knee, restricting that free flowing climbing motion?
I am encouraged to continue iterating and testing with this technique. Kinetic Garment Construction offers so many exciting possibilities to remove sensory irritation and design in sensory joy, pleasure and nourishment through tactility and movement in clothing.